A Traveller’s Guide to Choki Traditional Art School

When you hear about Choki Traditional Art School (CTAS), it sounded like just another art school. But actually, it’s so much more—it’s a place that pulses with Bhutan’s living culture, a refuge for tradition, creativity, and hope. Situated just north of Thimphu in the Kabesa valley, CTAS is tucked into mountain air and forested hillsides; the drive from town gives you a taste of that crisp Bhutanese air, and by the time you arrive, you feel like you’ve crossed into somewhere both gentle and powerful.

History of Choki Traditional Art School

Choki Traditional Art School was founded in 1999 by the late Dasho Choki Dorji, an artist and former judge. He is also remembered for establishing the Institute of Zorig Chusum in the early 1970s while serving as Head of the Painting Department under the Royal Government of Bhutan.

The school grew from a heartfelt vision: many children from less privileged backgrounds longed to learn Bhutan’s traditional arts but could not enter the National Painting School due to formal education requirements. Out of compassion, Dasho Choki Dorji opened his own home, offering them food, shelter, and guidance. What began as a humble act of generosity slowly blossomed into the thriving institution we see today.

The mission of the school is to preserve Bhutan's traditional arts and crafts, empower Bhutanese youths with livelihood and skills, and to support youths who are socially and economically disadvantaged.

What’s remarkable is that everything is free for students: tuition, lodging, meals — making it Bhutan's one and only private not-for-profit art school in Bhutan. CTAS isn’t just preserving skills like painting gods and myths (Lhadri), wood-carving (Patra), weaving, embroidery (Tshemdrup), tailoring (Tshemzo) and more—it’s giving youths the dignity of opportunity.

A Day There: Rhythm, Craft, Community

Visiting the school, you’ll immediately sense the rhythms that structure student life: early mornings, prayers, disciplined craft hours, periods of study, time for reflection, and hands-on work. Students practise their crafts with patience: painstaking painting, carving, weaving. The textures, colours, smells of wood, paint, and threads are everywhere. The teachers are both artisans and mentors.

It’s also community. Students live there, share meals, help around the campus. There’s a strong sense that this is more than just a school and there’s pride in preserving heritage, and hope in carving (literally and metaphorically) a future.

Why It’s Inspiring

Bhutan’s traditional arts are deeply tied to its identity. CTAS plays a vital role in keeping many of those alive. Without them, some techniques might fade.

For many students, this isn’t just about art—it’s a lifeline. They gain skill, an income eventually, and pride.

The handmade, the hand-taught, the process of craft adds a layer of awareness when you visit. You see how much time, patience, and humility go into what others might dismiss as “just decoration.”

Choki Heritage Museum

Beside the school stands the Choki Heritage Museum, housed in a 340-year-old farmhouse where legend says Lama Drukpa Kunley, Bhutan’s beloved “Divine Madman,” blessed the land. Within its ancient walls, centuries of Bhutanese life echo through treasured artefacts — farming tools, kitchenware, textiles, manuscripts, and ritual objects that were once part of daily life.

It feels less like a museum and more like stepping into a living memory, where each corner whispers stories of how Bhutanese families lived, worked, and celebrated generations ago.

Visiting the museum adds another layer to the experience—you don’t just see how the students are preserving Bhutan’s artistic traditions, you also get to walk through a piece of history that has quietly stood the test of time.

The Choki Heritage Museum, set in the sacred village of Chokor, carries deep spiritual and historical significance. According to legend, Lama Drukpa Kunley blessed the village, where miraculous stone scriptures appeared and a healing spring emerged. Nearby, three stupas consecrated in the 17th century by Gyelse Tenzin Rabgay still stand as symbols of compassion, wisdom, and power.

The museum itself occupies a 340-year-old noble farmhouse, abandoned after a smallpox epidemic but restored in 2002 when the Choki Traditional Art School relocated there. Preserved with original walls and timber, the building is both a cultural treasure and a rare example of Bhutanese rammed earth architecture.

Today, the museum serves as a living classroom—connecting students and visitors to Bhutan’s heritage, while safeguarding traditions for generations to come.

When you enter the museum, you will feel as though you have stepped back in time. The experience opens a window into Bhutan’s past, revealing fascinating traditions and the ingenuity of everyday life. You might watch the traditional preparation of puffed rice, a simple yet cherished food once enjoyed during festivals and gatherings.

You can learn the humble art of noodle making, see age-old stitching methods that turned scraps of fabric into garments, and discover how resourcefulness shaped the way people lived — from household tools carved out of wood to ingenious methods of food preservation and storage. Every detail tells a story of resilience and creativity.

Practical Tips for Visiting

Plan ahead and call beforehand. The school is open, but because it’s a working institute rather than just a tourist showplace, timing matters. Always inform your tour operator in advance should you wish to visit Choki Traditional Art School. Respect the art and students. When classes are on, many are working on sacred or very delicate pieces. Always ask before taking photos and never touch without permission. Allow enough time. Even one or two hours won’t do justice.

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Travel Tips

Highly recommend setting aside about three hours for the Hands-on Heritage Programme. It’s a wonderful way to dive into Bhutan’s traditions—you’ll not only learn about the country’s heritage and history but also take part in hands-on activities such as churning butter tea, joining an Ara ceremony, painting auspicious symbols, decorating stones, and much more.

Many travellers also like to combine this experience with the nearby Tango and Cheri hike, making it a perfect day that blends culture with nature.

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Bring some cash. There’s a shop selling artworks from the students, you’ll definitely want to bring home a piece. 

Getting there is simple. It’s about 10–12 km north of Thimphu, in Kabesa. 

Reflections

After spending time at Choki Traditional Art School, you'll realise that it’s not just about strokes of paint, or carving wood—it’s about patience, mentorship, lineage, and identity. I was humbled by the dedication: students reviving arts that their grandparents may have done, crafting objects that carry belief, myth, and spirituality. The school bridges past and future: preserving tradition, yes, but also giving students tools to make a life in the modern world with those traditions intact.

If you’re travelling to Bhutan, CTAS is not just a place to tick off your itinerary—it’s somewhere that will change how you see art, culture, and maybe even yourself.